positano
If there was one place in the world I could only dream of traveling to, it would be Positano. Having been flooded by images and videos of its colorful cliffside buildings, crystal clear waters and mouthwatering Italian food for years, there was no question in my mind where my husband and I would celebrate our second wedding anniversary. Positano was the second stop on our Amalfi Coast tour over the summer of 2023 and it absolutely exceeded every expectation from its beauty, its charm and its romance. The images you see splashed across social media each summer don’t even begin to do this special town justice - it is truly somewhere you need to see to believe. While unfortunate bad weather cancelled most of our adventures, the unexpected free time enabled us to explore the vibrant town and dine at several restaurants on my backup list. There is nothing quite like enjoying Mediterranean fare with views of the sparkling Mediterranean Sea, so here are the destinations we selected to enjoy the magic that is coastal Italian food in Positano:
Lunch
Upon arriving to the iconic Marina Grande, where Positano’s colorful, cascading hills overlook turquoise blue waters, it’s hard to ignore the bustling boardwalk where restaurants and bars line the beach club shores. In true European fashion, outdoor dining patios sit seaside, merely inches from the sand. If not the blues and whites of Ristorante L’Incanto’s decor, its diverse menu of seafood, pizza and wines a plenty will most certainly draw you in. Will and I dined here for lunch as soon as we docked in Positano and it was the most fabulous welcome to the Amalfi Coast. A crisp bottle of local Italian white wine along with oysters and pizza…let’s just say both of us were absolutely satisfied. And the location is just the cherry on top. Our table sat right on the edge of the outdoor patio enabling us to hear the vibey music of the restaurant’s beach club and take in the sites of this Italian oasis.
My favorites: Oysters | Mediterranean Pizza *Will’s choice
A renowned eatery also located in the heart of Marina Grande, Buca di Bacco is a charming restaurant serving up authentic and beloved Mediterranean fare. White table linens, red accents, including the most adorable coral chandeliers, and a warm, homey ambiance make for the ideal Italian lunch destination. With roots dating back to the ‘50s, Buca di Bacco screams la dolce vita - simple, lovely and quintessential coastal Italy. We dined in the restaurant on a rainy day and, despite the less than ideal weather, enjoying our food and Greco di Tufo wine with views of the rainfall over the sea was incredibly relaxing. On a clear day, expect unobstructed views of the picturesque Positano coast and plenty of delicious menu items that, combined, make for the most beautiful Italian lunch.
My favorites: Tomato & basil
When our second day turned out to be another rainy day, Will and I decided to walk over to the next local beach, Fornillo Beach for our daily white wine and lunch. At the end of a lovely walk along the coast, with views of the Mediterranean and famous Tower Trasita, we stumbled upon the cutest seaside restaurant, Lo Guarracino. A quaint space, accomodating 50 people max, with decor so traditional and warm, Lo Guarracino is intimacy, hospitality and pure Italian charm. The location alone is out of a dream - an outdoor terrace situated high in the cliffside with beautiful florals lining the white iron railing and shades of quintessential Mediterranean whites and blues across its seating area - and the menu is one we crowned as our favorite lunch in Positano. Our table sat right on the railing and the views were absolutely breathtaking. There is another seating area known as the garden room directly below the main terrace, giving rustic cozy vibes and with views equally as gorgeous. Pro tip: head down to Fornillo Beach, located right below the restaurant, and rent beach chairs for the day - a great beach club-esque option for rainy days when traditional boats aren’t running to Positano’s other famous beach clubs (which is what happened to us). What initially was a last-minute change of plans turned into one of our favorite days in Positano, thanks to this delicious and special meal.
My favorites: Focaccia with tomatoes and basil | Chopped salad | Margherita Pizza *Will’s choice
Aperitivo
A true hotspot in Positano, Franco’s Bar is THE place for aperitivo - think the trendiest of tourists, swanky tunes, craft cocktails and arguably one of the most stunning views of Positano’s iconic colorful coast. I will admit, Will and I attempted to grab pre-dinner drinks on our first night in Positano but the line was miles long, so the following day, we went early and waited in line until the bar opened, which was a success. And there’s no question as to why there’s always a line outside Franco’s. The space is incredibly intimate, seating probably 50 guests with tiny lil tables stacked merely inches from one another, and the vibes are truly immaculate. From cool house music playing subtly in the background, to bright blue tables and chairs and its infamous gold fountain, which makes up the main wall, to the picturesque views and of course, the delicious cocktails presented beautifully, Franco’s is absolutely positively worth the hype.
*at Hotel Eden Roc
As I mentioned, Will and I were unable to get into Franco’s our first night in Positano but, since we were craving drinks with a view, we walked further up the winding street to our dinner location, Hotel Eden Roc. Lucky for us, this hotel is not only home to a beautiful restaurant, but also a rooftop bar with a view that rivals that of Franco’s. We were one of two couples at the bar and I kid you not, witnessed the most beautiful sunset with unobstructed views of Positano’s coastline. This aperitivo was one of those moments where the universe placed us exactly where we needed to be in that moment. The setting was romantic, the view was absolutely incredible and the bartender was 10/10, even introducing Will to an Italian mojito - one made with a drizzle of bitters at the top and so delish. A hidden gem and one we so luckily stumbled upon, Eden Sky Bar is one I’d absolutely recommend to anyone visiting Positano, especially if you are interested in Franco’s-esque drinks with a view. Enjoy a sunset aperitivo and watch as Positano goes from colorful to sparkling as the sun goes down. Pro tip: head up to the pool deck for an even more beautiful, unobstructed and picturesque view…perfect for that vacay content.
On the evening of our second wedding anniversary, Will and I had the pleasure of dining at Adamo ed Eva, located at the lovely Hotel Eden Roc. I booked this restaurant specifically for the view - reminder, this is same hotel as mentioned above where Eden Sky Bar is located - and it surely didn’t disappoint. Aperitivo at the rooftop bar and watching the sun set over Positano was the perfect way to begin a romantic anniversary dinner. Once seated at the restaurant, just a stairway up from the bar on the terrace and at the highest point of the building, we had views of the bright moon shining over the Mediterranean Sea and were treated to a delightful meal of local seafood, pasta and ofc, wine. This menu featured all the coastal Italian favorites, elevated by quality ingredients, stunning presentation and a whole lot of romance. We were even treated to a show of the evening’s fresh lobster - guests are invited to select which lobster they’d like to enjoy and while we opted out, the entertainment was certainly unique. What a beautiful way to celebrate our love, high atop Positano’s cliffside and with a gorgeous Italian meal.
My Favorites: Fresh Catch | Ravioli *Will’s choice
Our meal at La Tagliata was one of those I’ll never be able to put into words - in fact, it is one of the most special dinner experiences I’ve ever had. Before I describe this lovely evening, I must set the scene leading up to it. As I’ve shared, the weather during our stay in Positano unexpectedly went south after our first day - what was supposed to be gloriously sunny, summer in Italy situation was actually quite wet and rainy. Luckily, we had a break in the rain come aperitivo and on this night, we had the most enjoyable pre-dinner drinks at Franco’s. As the rain started to pick up again, Will and I quickly ran over to a local wine bar, Le Tre Sorelle Wine Room - which I absolutely recommend for a drink while in Positano because it’s adorable and the selection is exquisite - where we debated just heading home for the evening instead of making the trek to La Tagliata. For background, this restaurant is located at the tippy top of Positano. After much discussion we decided to stick to our plans and head up the windy roads for diner, and boy am I SO GLAD we did. A shuttle picked us up at our hotel and dropped us on a dimly lit street up the hill. I wish I could have seen this restaurant during the day because it is so high up, I know the views are breathtaking. We walked into the nearly empty restaurant - only 1 other man dining alone - which wasn’t exactly the warm welcome I had anticipated. HOWEVER, once we sat down, our waiter came to our table, asked “red or white wine?” and from this point on, we were in for the most magical experience. The restaurant is so authentically Italian - natural wood panels and chairs, pops of red across the tablescapes, peppers, wine barrels and other knick knacks hanging from the ceiling - a unique and homey backdrop to a traditional meal ahead. There were no menus. We chose our wine and were brought a bottle they actually make themselves - and it was fabulous. Our waiter then delivered plate upon plate of food. I’m talking 2 starters, a pasta plate, a meat plate AND dessert, all created by their talented chef according to ingredients grown on their on-site farm. Every dish was absolutely incredible - we couldn’t believe it could get any better as each plate was placed on our table. It felt like we were dining in an Italian family’s home, where we didn’t even need to ask for anything - all was taken care of and with such love. While we wish we could have cleaned every plate, there was so much food it would have been absolutely impossible. But knowing the chef carefully crafts each dish with the farm’s ingredients and experiencing such authentic Italian fare we hadn’t yet experienced on our trip, there was something truly magical about the whole experience. It also made me realize how fun dining out can be when all the decisions are made for you - you just sit back, relax and enjoy the food and company…this was what I think about often. I would recommend La Tagliata a thousand times over - the ambiance, the experience, the food, the hospitality…truly so unique and incredibly enjoyable. Plus, they offer cooking classes that is basically a party with ever-flowing wine, so if I were to ever return, I would definitely sign up for that.
My favorites: every single plate
Chez Black is an absolute must when you visit Positano…simply put. Not only is it located right on the boardwalk of Spiaggia Grande, enabling views of the coastline and witnessing the happiest of passersby, but it’s just so quintessential Italian dining and we LOVE everything about that. The bright turquoise awning and chairs, vintage nautical decor and crowded seating that is equally endearing as it is fun, Chez Black is classic coastal Italy. Plus, the ambiance is such a vibe - the chatter is loud, the drinks are flowing, the waiters hustle from table to table…I love the high energy combined with a simple and traditional Italian menu that reflect that of your grandmother’s home cooking. Chez Black is like dining aboard an old, luxurious ship with your loved ones and several other parties of people looking for a good time and good food. I promise, you’ll be satisfied from the the moment you sit down to when you lick your plate clean.
My favorites: Spaghetti & Meatballs | Gnocchi *Will’s choice
