burgundy
If you would have told me in 2023 that I would soon travel to Burgundy to see and taste the wines I was studying hours on end daily for six months, I wouldn’t have believed you. But, as if I manifested it into existence, we spontaneously planned to meet friends on their previously planned Euro-trip, which had involved Paris and thus, was edited to also include the most coveted wine region of Burgundy, France. I still can’t quite describe this place—with its vast miles and miles of picturesque vines, quaint and charming medieval style villages, simplicity of livelihood, an overwhelming sense of joy amongst its people and the insurmountable sense of pride they feel for their individual villages’ wines—or even describe the influx of emotions I felt during this experience—of pride in my accomplishments as a Court of Masters Sommeliers Introductory Sommelier, of pure joy as a life-long lover of wine, of butterflies-in-my-stomach-can’t-believe-this-is-my-life-pinch-me-I’m-dreaming moments I won’t ever forget. Visiting this place, Burgundy, an historic, revolutionary purveyor and global leader in wine, was out of my wildest dreams and a memory I’ll forever cherish. And while I knew tasting the wines from this region would leave me without words, I could have never imagined the level of exquisite dining and gastronomy I experienced across these villages. A place you really must see to believe, here is my best attempt at capturing the magic of the restaurants and wine producers I visited while in Burgundy:
The Wine
Spanning over 140 miles from north of Chablis to just south of Mâcon with over 30,000 hectares (over 74,000 acres) of vines, Burgundy is arguably the most intricate and complex wine region in the world, thus, creating a benchmark for quality, reputation, style and price across the global wine industry. And would you believe all of this land and all of these vines essentially produce only 2 grapes? The region is zoned for a few other less prevalent varieties, but the bulk of production is that of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. While these grapes are now grown and produced into wines around the world, consider Burgundy the original expression of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and some of the most iconic, expensive and absolutely breathtaking wines in the world. I hired Burgundy Unlimited to curate the perfect day of wine tasting and reserve a table for the most delicious lunch, and I could not recommend their services more. Not only were they accommodating to my requests, but they provided unique options for exclusive tastings based on their longstanding relationships with local producers. Our guide was incredible, providing in-depth knowledge on the region and even touring us to famous spots and villages outside our contracted day. Here’s a look at our day in Burgundy wine:
This winery is one of the most renowned in Nuits Saint George (NSG), producing high quality Burgundies since the 1930s, and its new, stunning tasting room is now open to the public to taste its beautiful wines. The space is crisp and modern, with striking wood-paneled accent walls, neutral hues and the most peaceful ambiance. We were treated to 5 incredible reds (NSG is zoned only for red wine), 4 of which were Premier Crus, the quality tier just below France’s highest achievement of Grand Cru. Prior to visiting Burgundy, NSG was one particular region I was most excited to visit simply because of its location in Côtes de Nuits, which produces some of the most well-known and highest quality red Burgundies, and each of the wines we tasted at Domaine Henri Gouges exceeded every expectation. The tasting experience is elevated, quite serene and insightful, with its team providing exceptional insight on the wines we were tasting.
From the outside, this gorgeous manor resembles a sophisticated dollhouse with its pink trim, charming French architecture, flourishing florals and lush vines cascading up the walls. And inside, expect to taste exceptional Burgundian whites and reds spanning from Gevrey-Chambertin to Puligny-Montrachet. A family-owned and operated business, the d'Ardhuy family owns 42 hectares of vineyards in Burgundy and specializes in biodynamic viticulture. We had the pleasure of tasting village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru whites and reds and the experience, the wine and walking through its cellar of incredible vintages was truly something special.
You can’t miss the incredible landscape and iconic glazed yellow polychromed-tiled roof—a style emblematic of Burgundian architecture—making this breathtaking Château the most photographed monument in Burgundy after the Hospices de Beaune. With vineyards across some of the most reputable locations on the prestigious Corton Hill, these wines are incredibly refined and precise. In fact, a young woman is the winemaker for the Château and her practice of organic viticulture and superior winemaking result in wines as elegant as the winery itself. This tasting was especially magical because we were led to the cellar beneath the Château where we tasted five of the most spectacular Burgundian reds in a private tasting room.
Not only is the region of Burgundy known for its wine, but the local passion for fine food is unmatched. Blending the art of French gastronomy with local produce from the Burgundy terroir, the cuisine from this region has become renowned and sought after. The restaurant at Castel de Tres Girard is a testament to the beautiful, unique and incredibly delicious cuisine of Burgundy. We broke up our wine tasting day with a delightful lunch at this stunning hotel in Morey Saint-Denis, one of Burgundy’s many charming, quaint villages. The ambiance is sophisticated yet friendly and the ingredients are fresh from local producers—the most divine freshness you have to taste to believe. Here is where I enjoyed the most delectable French Caesar salad, which catapulted me into ordering the dish almost every day of our French travels thereafter. French Caesars are made with fried chicken, and this simple adjustment adds the perfect crisp to an otherwise creamy and decadent salad. An elegant and refined dining experience with the most incredible meal and wine grown in the village in which the hotel sits—the dreamiest lunch to accompany the most magical day of wine tasting.
If you visit Burgundy, I highly recommend booking a hotel in Beaune—it’s centrally located and truly the most adorable scene I’ve ever experienced. We stayed at Hotel Le Cep—it was incredibly charming and the perfect location for walking into the village for dining. Maison Jules is a cute cafe, or brasserie, located on an even cuter street where several more cafes, bars and restaurants sit on cobblestone streets facing a sweet carousel—a vision out of a movie. Maison Jules, along with its neighboring cafes, offer indoor and outdoor seating, which is ideal for experiencing authentic European lunch culture. We dined here after exploring Dijon and let me tell you, this Caesar was up there with my favorites of the whole trip. Crispy fried chicken, fresh greens and cheese that I can actually consume, and an ice-cold DC…say less. The perfect spot for a beautiful lunch followed by a lovely jaunt around the sweet village of Beaune.
Dinner
Undoubtedly, this dining experience will forever be one of the most exquisite, elegant, dazzling delectable and truly magical experiences of my life. From the pure beauty of the Hostellerie de Levernois grounds, to the graceful and peaceful restaurant ambiance, to the incredible gastronomic journey comprised of traditional flavors of Burgundy and seasonal produce from its own garden and local producers, there is no wonder why Table de Levernois is recognized with 1 Michelin star. Paying tribute to the glory that is French cuisine, you’ll enjoy classic dishes for the gourmet palate, along with seasonally inspired plates, created with tremendous passion and served to resemble art. I truly have no words to describe the quality, the beauty and the flavor of each meal. And of course, no surprise here, but the wine list was the largest I’ve ever seen and features the most superior selection of fine wines from across the world’s most distinguished regions. You must order the cheese. You’ll be greeted with an entire table full of dozens of fine cheeses to choose from that will be freshly cut and plated right in front of you. A restaurant so special, I’ll forever remember it as heaven on earth.
For quintessential Burgundian cuisine in the heart of Beaune, Brasserie Le Parisien is perfection. The restaurant is quaint and cozy, with a menu full of local delicacies and favorites. And of course, the wine list is exceptional. Beef Bourguignon is an authentic dish to this region of France and on a cool night like the night we arrived into town, this warm, comforting, stew-like meal was just what I needed. The flavors of the beef were bold and rich, and the warmth of the stew created the perfect balance of texture and taste. Highly recommend for a casual yet absolutely delish meal in town.
After a full day of wine tasting, pizza was just what the doctor ordered (and yes, I do consume dairy in Europe because it doesn’t bother me and I prefer to enjoy traditional plates as they are meant to be eaten when I travel). Pietro is a quaint and cozy Italian eatery in the heart of Beaune and the perfect place for a casual yet charming meal of pizza and wine. The upstairs is sweet and vibrant while its basement resembles more of a romantic cellar, a testament to the surrounding vineyards. Each pizza is topped with fresh, colorful ingredients. We hadn’t made a reservation following our wine tasting adventures and Pietro was a lovely restaurant to pop into for a casual dinner.
Dijon
If you’re staying in Beaune, I highly recommend traveling to Dijon, the capital of Burgundy. Expect incredible medieval, Renaissance-style architecture, cobblestone streets, gothic landmarks and LOTS of mustard. Follow the owls on the ground to see incredible sites—cathedrals, museums and palaces—and add these stops to your list:
Les Halles - a giant farmer’s market of local meats, cheeses, produce, pasties and of course, mustard
Mulot and Petitjean - gingerbread is a specialty in this region and a must to try when visiting
Edmond Fallot - taste hundreds of unique flavors of Dijon mustard and certainly bring some home because mustard will truly never taste the same after you’ve experienced the wonder of authentic Dijon
L’Hemicycle - the sweetest brasserie located in the most stunning square with views of the Dijon palace—enjoy a spritz on the lovely outdoor patio and feel the ultimate sense of European bliss
